A Taste of Paris in Nolita
by Nicole M.
Tartinery, a chic new French restaurant in Nolita, offers an innovative new concept for dining–the French tapas bar. This bi-level, beautifully decorated eatery has a mission: to make the Tartine (a meal baked onto thin rustic bread) as popular in New York City as in the streets of Paris and judging from the quality of the food–they will succeed.
Tartinery uses Poilâne, the most famed bread in Paris, for the base of its tartines. Each is made simply with only five or six high-quality ingredients. The chef uses the blank canvas of the Poilâne bread to create culinary works of art with incredible depth and flavor.
While browsing the menu, my guest and I sipped the sweet and crisp Rosé, which is served by the glass. We shared an appetizer of house-made Buffalo Mozarella that was deliciously silky and served with cherry tomatoes, olive oil and fragrant basil.
Co-owner Stephan Jauslin helped us choose a selection of the most popular and authentically French tartines on the menu. First was the Steak Minute, piled high with tender and juicy filet mignon, sweet caramelized onions and served wth traditional french Dijon mustard. Next, the Foie Gras, paired with an amazingly sweet fig jam – a must for foie gras lovers. The special for the night, a crispy and lemony Soft Shell Crab Tartine, was so good we couldn’t resist eating every bite.
The Saint Marcelin Tartine made with creamy Saint Marcelin cheese and Bayonne ham was earthy and rustic while the Poulet Rôti with roasted chicken, herb mayo and crispy fennel was incredibly moist and fresh. We also enjoyed the creamy Shrimp Risotto, the best I’ve had since my visit to the South of France years ago.
They say French women don’t get fat, but I would happily add some pounds to my frame to eat the desserts from Tartinery. The homemade Tart Tatin, a classic French dish, was wonderfully sweet with soft apples, slightly tart caramel and a buttery crust. The Fondant au Chocolate, a molten chocolate cake, exploded onto the plate with a rich chocolate center. After one bite of the Choco (a tartine made with grated dark chocolate and melted sea salt butter), I knew why the dessert is a popular after school snack for French school children. Sometimes in life, its the simple things that are the best, and at Tartinery, it doesn’t get any better than chocolate on bread.
Located at 209 Mulberry Street, the restaurant has a sexy laid, back vibe with a funky soundtrack of old school French music. At lunch, bring your laptop and cozy up to the bar for a value-minded prix-fixe option and fresh squeezed juices produced a la minute. Snag a cozy table downstairs for a casual dinner date. The floor to ceiling windows make the restaurant perfect for people watching and the generous portions are perfect for sharing. Enjoy, mes amis!